Day Six: Monday, 10th May 2021

Today we reversed yesterday's path and headed westwards towards Dillon Springs on the Victoria Highway, with the Carr Boyd Ranges to the south (left of the bus) - on the first day we observed this range, I thought that it was the Cardboard Ranges!! Having turned in a northerly direction towards Wyndham, we had the Cockburn Range to the west (left of the bus). There was quite a lot of smoke haze caused by various burn-offs. About twenty miles short of Wyndham, we turned eastwards onto Parry Creek Road for our intermediate destination at Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve, but first we explored the Old Wyndham Telegraph Station site.

Telegraph Hill offers uninterrupted panoramic views of the dramatic landscape on the outskirts of Wyndham. You can see all the way out to the Cambridge Gulf and ocean on a clear day. It lies within Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve - a bird sanctuary for over 20,000 birds - and looks down at the Marglu Billabong.

The concrete piles are the remains of buildings that housed staff at the Wyndham Radio Telegraph Station during and after the First World War.

The station, which operated between 1914 and 1924, was responsible for tracking a number of enemy ships during World War I. Its main significance lies in its contribution to the sinking of the Emden. It was decided to close the station because of the static interference from the iron in the rock surrounding the site.

Boab (Adansoni gregorii)

The ruins of the Telegraph Station lie on a basalt hill amidst a grove of boab trees which started growing soon after the removal of the buildings. So soon after the Wet, everything looked lush and thriving.

Ord River floodplain from Telegraph Hill

Marlgu Billabong - Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve

Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve is home to a wealth of tropical birds that may be seen from the bird hide and boardwalk at Marlgu Billabong.

Marlgu Billabong - Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve

The area is an important waterbird feeding and breeding area. It is also a stop-over point for migratory waders, some of which travel from as far afield as Siberia. Over 160 species of birds have been recorded at Marlgu Billabong.

Marlgu Billabong - unknown range of hills

Wandering Whistling-Duck (Dendrocygna arcuata)

The Wandering Whistling-Duck is also known as the Whistling Tree-Duck, Water Whistling-Duck, and the Red Whistler. It is found in northern and eastern Australia, from the Kimberley region, across the north of Australia, to south-eastern New South Wales, where it prefers deep vegetated lagoons and swamps, flooded grasslands, sewerage farms, grain stubbles, pastures, irrigated lands, and ricefields. 

Little Black Cormorant (Phalacrocorax sulcirostris)

The Little Black Cormorant is one of only two totally black cormorants in Australia, and is found throughout Australia, including Tasmania. It is mainly found in freshwater wetlands, but will sometimes be found on sheltered coastal waters, and can use relatively small, deep water bodies. It is strongly aquatic, seldom being seen on dry land, but is often seen resting on rocks, jetties and other perches in water.

Magpie Goose (Anseranas semipalmata)

The magpie goose is the sole living representative species of the family Anseranatidae. This common waterbird is found in northern Australia and southern New Guinea. 

Magpie geese are unmistakable birds with their black and white plumage and yellowish legs. The feet are only partially webbed, and the magpie goose feeds on vegetable matter in the water, as well as on land. Males are larger than females. Unlike true geese, their moult is gradual, so no flightless periods result. Their voice is a loud honking.

Nardoo (Marsilea drummondii)

Nardoo is native to Australia, where it is widespread and common, particularly in inland regions. It is a rhizomatous perennial aquatic fern that roots in mud substrates and produces herbage that floats on the surface of quiet water bodies up to one metre deep, and is abundant after floods. It can form mats on the water's surface and cover the ground in carpets as floodwaters recede. It is variable in appearance and occurs in many types of wetland habitat. In general the frond is made up of two pairs of leaflets and is borne erect when not floating.

Plumed Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni)

The plumed whistling duck, also called the grass whistling duck, is a predominantly brown-coloured duck with a long neck and characteristic plumes arising from its flanks. The sexes are similar in appearance. The usual range is eastern, northern, and central Australia from the Kimberley across the Top End and Cape York, down to northern New South Wales on the east coast. It is also found in New Guinea. The preferred habitat is tall grassland and savanna, often near bodies of water. Rather than diving for food in bodies of water like other ducks, the plumed whistling duck feeds by cropping grass on land.

Pied Heron (Ardea picata)

The Pied Heron, also known as the Pied Egret, or the White-headed Egret, is grey with a yellow bill and legs. The top of the head and crest is black and the face and neck are white. Its preferred habitat is the edges of swamps, lakes, lagoons, mangroves, and mudflats, where it hunts fish, frogs, crustaceans, and insects. The Pied Heron builds a platform of sticks in a tree, and lays three to six blue-white eggs. They nest in colonies - often with other species of heron. There range is coastal northern Australia, from the Kimberleys in Western Australia around to Townsville in Queensland.

Intermediate Egret (Ardea intermedea)

Leaving Marlgu Billabong, we turned northwards on the Great Northern Highway and arrived at the Five Rivers Lookout above the Port of Wyndham at about 11:30 am. 

The Port of Wyndham

Established in 1885, when gold was discovered near Halls Creek, the historic town of Wyndham covered a small area of land between Mount Albany and the Cambridge Gulf. Due to the tidal mud flats, the town was unable to expand, so in 1968 the town was "moved" to Wyndham 3-Mile, and the old town was re-named Wyndham Port.

Cambridge Gulf

Wyndham is the most northerly town in Western Australia, and is also one of the hottest places in Australia, with an average maximum daily temperature of 36-degrees centigrade.

Mud flats near Port of Wyndham

The daily tides rise and fall up to 8.3 metres.

The "Mermaid" Boab

This small boab tree is a genetically identical copy of the "Mermaid" boab, that was propogated by grafting material from the iconic tree to seedling rootstock. In 1820, while exploring and charting the Kimberley coast, Lt. Phillip Parker King and his crew carried out major repairs to HMC Mermaid at Careening Bay. Whilst there, they inscribed a large boab tree, which remains a significant historical marker.

Five Rivers Lookout rest area, above the Port of Wyndham

The lookout sits on top of the Daharwi or Bastion Range, and provides expansive views of the surrounding mudflats, mangrove swamps, and hills, as well as the five rivers that flow into Cambridge Gulf: King, Ord, Durack, Forrest, and Pentecost.

A nice little beetle

Leaving the lookout we drove to the town of Wyndham where we visited the Courthouse Museum, then the jetty, and lastly, had a picnic lunch in a park near the pier. The Museum was filled with memorabilia and artifacts that marked the history of the town, but the two below caught my eye.

Plaque in honour of Matron Irwin

Matron Irwin, who was in charge of Wyndham Hospital, was a victim of a fever epidemic and died in July 1936. She was held in high esteem by the residents of the district. When fever broke out, Matron Irwin and Doctor Coto, the Flying Doctor in the area, fought the outbreak for weeks. When the epidemic was subsiding, Matron Irwin, through exhaustion and lack of sleep, succumbed to the fever, and in spite of the desperate fight by Doctor Coto she died. Matron Irwin was a war nurse and the returned soldiers of the district subscribed to the cost of the tablet and the unveiling. The "Diggers" marched in a parade to the beat of drums through the town to the hospital.

Wandjina figures

The card reads: Wandjina are Ancestral Beings with human characteristics. They are portrayed with a head-halo, eyes, and nose, but no mouth. As spirits of the clouds, Wandjinas contain the rain, lightning, and thunder; if they had mouths, they would release rain without end across the land. Wangjina paintings are believed, by many people, to have special powers; it is therefore advisable to approach them cautiously, and with respect.

Flat Top Hill in the Milligan Ranges, from Wyndham

Drayson Peak, near Wyndham

Picnic lunch, Wyndham

Mangroves and mudflats - view to the southwest down West Arm, from Wyndham Port

Having been disappointed again in our quest to sight "Salties" we left Wyndham, back down the Great Northern Highway, with the Cockburn Ranges in the distance to the west. As on most days of the tour, burning off was in practice.

Burning off. Cockburn Ranges to the west

A right turn from the highway onto the famous Gibb River Road, took us in a westerly direction towards Emma Gorge Resort on El Questro Station. The Gibb River Road follows an old stock route dating from the 1800s that stretches about 660 kilometres, and is only accessible by 4WD vehicles.

Eastern end of the famous Gibb River Road

From the Left: Kaylene; Karen; Greg; Sue; Colleen; Joanne; Chris; Brian O; Angela; Leon; Helen W; Julie; Pier; Dave; Steph; Noreen; Brian Mc; Helen F; Anthony; Carol. As indicated on the sign, the Wet had taken a toll on many roads that were restricted to use by light vehicles only.

Gibb River Road turnoff

Cockburn Ranges

Cockburn Ranges

Open Savanna woodland

A lovely old boab tree!

Cockburn Ranges

Cockburn Ranges

Another lovely old boab tree!

Yellow Kapok (Cochlospermum fraseri)

Yellow Kapok is also known as Kapok Tree, and Kapok Bush, however, because these alternate names are also used for other species, the term Yellow Kapok is recommended for use when describing this.

Detail of the Yellow Kapok flower (Cochlospermum fraseri)

Yellow Kapok is a calendar plant for First Nations people - flowering from May to October, it is a sign that freshwater crocodiles are laying eggs. When it is fruiting, it indicates when the eggs can be collected.

Cabin 36, Emma Gorge Resort

Cabin 36, Emma Gorge Resort

Cul de sac to Cabin 36 - Emma Gorge Resort

We arrived at Emma Gorge Resort at abut 3:00 pm, and quickly settled into deluxe, under-canvas accommodation for a rest, then drinks, and dinner at 6:00 pm.

Bridge from the cabins to the dining area

The dining area and bar - Emma Gorge Resort

Post dinner drinks - Emma Gorge Resort

What a day! Marlgu Billabong was the highlight, though the Gibb River Road was memorable for not being a highway!! To bed by 9:00 pm to prepare for tomorrow's hike.

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