Day One: Wednesday 5th May 2021

Day One: Wednesday, 5th May 2021

Having gathered at the Sunset Bar & Grill on the previous evening to meet our fellow travellers, twenty of us (plus guide/driver Ray) rose early, breakfasted, and left Cable Beach Club Spa & Resort aboard our APT twenty-two seater, four-wheel-drive bus, at 7:00 am. We headed east from Broome, past Roebuck Plains Station - which was acquired by the Indigenous Land Corporation in 1996, and was subject to a ruling by the Federal Court in 2006, that the Station was the exclusive possession of the Yawuru peoples under native title.

Our trusty APT Remote Journeys chariot

At Roebuck Plains Roadhouse we joined the Great Northern Highway to continue the journey in an easterly direction. The pindan (red dirt) landscape showed flat Savanna woodland, mainly accommodating acacias, but with some eucalyptus. This would change gradually, so that eucalyptus dominated but with a scattering of acacia, and then would change again to open Plains (or Downs, as they tend to be called in the Kimberley), before reverting to the first arrangement.

Fitzroy River

Our first major river crossing was the Fitzroy - still carrying a lot of water - and our first stop was at Willare Bridge Roadhouse, where we collected our picnic lunch and stretched our legs.

Willare Bridge Roadhouse

After a short drive we turned off the Highway and headed in a northerly direction to Derby, passing the Curtin Air Base on our right (to the east). About six kilometres outside Derby we stopped at the Prison Boab Tree.

Prison Boab Tree (Adansonia gregorii)

It seems that this Boab may have been used by Aboriginal people as an ossary for the dead. Stories persist that it was also used as a temporary prison by police officers passing through on their way to Derby. This is generally discounted nowadays, and is is believed that the history of another boab tree (at Wyndham, also in Western Australia) was transposed to this one. Also, local Aboriginal histories do not support the story that the Derby tree was used to imprison Aboriginal people, either by policemen or earlier blackbirders. Nevertheless, signage at the site perpetuates the myth - it seems that the saying "why spoil a good story for the sake of the truth" applies!

Nevertheless, this specimen is estimated to be 1,500 years old, and has a girth of  14.7 metres. It is fenced-off to protect it from initials-carvers, and compaction of the soil by vehicles. It is thought that the name "Boab" is a corruption of baobab, the similar tree found in Africa.

Fruit of of the Boab tree

Flower of the Boab tree

The European honeybee (Apis mellifera) was introduced into Western Australia in the 1800s. Honey production is now an important industry, and the Kimberley is seen as a potential wonderland for apiarists.

Bee Nest in the Prison Boab tree

Near to the Boab tree was a Coolamon tree, which is a light, easily-worked wood, lacking grain, which was used to make the Aboriginal carrying dish - the coolamon - and shields. It is also known as Shitwood (refers to the unpleasant smell when burnt), or Helicopter Tree (which refers to the winged fruits which spin in the wind, assisting dissemination).

Coolamon tree (Gyrocarpus americanus)

A short time later we paused at Mowanjum Aboriginal Arts & Culture Centre. Three Mowanjum language groups, Ngarinyin, Worrorra and Wunambal, are interconnected by cross-tribal relationships, spiritual beliefs, and responsibilities for the Wandjina spirit. Outside the Centre was a display of metal sculptures that depict various elements of their connection to land.

We reached the town of Derby (population 3,325 in 2016) which is the first town settled in the Kimberley. Stopping ar the wharf to enjoy our lunch, we were amazed at the vast harbour, but were disappointed not to see any saltwater crocodiles - obviously not their lunchtime!! 

Derby Wharf and Harbour

The highest of all Australian tides and the second highest tide in the world happens in the King Sound near Derby in late March and again in late April.

As we walked from the jetty, we noticed some strange fish on the mud, and a school of small fish causing the water to boil. These were lated identified as the Blue-spotted Mudskipper, also known as the Blue-spotted Mudhopper, and the Goggle-eyed Goby. In the photo, the fish is covered with mud, however, when clean they display bright azure-blue spots on both sides.

Blue-spotted Mudskipper (Boleophthalmus boddarti)

School of Blue-spotted Mudskippers

We departed Derby, and headed southwards - retracing our morning's route - to re-join the Great Northern Highway which took us in an easterly direction towards the day's destination - Fitzroy Crossing. The landscape on both sides of the road revealed more of the Savanna woodland, though the termite mounds had changed colour from grey to red.

Open Savanna woodland with red termite mounds

As we travelled through the afternoon, we paused briefly at Ellendale Rest Stop, after which the Oscar Range could be seen on our left - to the northeast - and the Fitzroy Flood Plain to the south. We noticed roadside spinifex for the first time, and the delightful pink display of Batchelor's Button.

Fitzroy River Flood Plain

Oscar Range

Batchelor's Button (Gomphrena canescens)

Late in the afternoon we arrived at Dunggu Geikie National Park and enjoyed a fabulous Bunuba Aboriginal Ranger-directed cruise in a flat-bottomed boat on the Fitzroy River. Setting off just before 5:00 pm, we observed exquisite reflections in the waters of the Gorge which was carved by the Fitzroy River through part of an ancient limestone barrier reef which snakes across the west Kimberley. It was laid down in an ancient sea that covered a large part of the Kimberley in Devonian times, some 350 million years ago.

The outward trip was drenched in sunlight, and the homeward leg was more shadowed and moody.

Geikie Gorge

Balancing act - Geikie Gorge

Ahh! This way is up

Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge reflections

And more Geikie Gorge reflections

I can grow anywhere!

Geikie Gorge

Geikie Gorge

The photos barely do justice to the beauty of this exquisite part of our journey. A little overcome by the wonder of the Gorge, we made our way to Fitzroy Crossing, where we retired to the Fitzroy River Lodge for dinner and a quiet evening (for most of us!).

Go to Day Two